Sunday, 23 March 2008

Semana Santa (Easter) - An attempt at an explanation

This is so difficult to convey to you that I have gone to the internet to try to find an explanation of Semana Santa here in Spain. So here goes...
Spain celebrates Easter Week much more than most European countries. During the whole of Semana Santa, (Holy Week), street processions are organised in most Spanish towns each evening, from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday.
While Semana Santa is a national tradition throughout Spain, the "Andalucians" arguably "feel" the week more than other regions of Spain. Throughout seven days, Andalucia is surrounded by a spiritual halo. Semana Santa is a tradition which is repeated year after year; a time when the devout and curious join together to participate in the procession and converge on the streets and squares which take on the ambience and mystique of an open air temple.
People carry trounos (thrones) which contain statues of christ and various virgin saints around on floats or wooden platforms, amongst an atmosphere of mourning - which can seem quite oppressive to onlookers.
In some of the processions, marchers wear clothes reminiscent of the klu klux klan. Infact their clothes are meant to depict the Nazareños, people from Nazareth. The religious fraternities and brotherhoods are responsable for carrying the statues and organising the penitents and musicians. The Nazareños follow the people who carry the floats bearing sculptures and models of biblical scenes. In some but not all processions those carrrying the trounos also have their faces covered in the similar way. This is because originally to carry the trouno was a form of pennance and so those who were disgraced did not want their faces to be seen.
The skill and expertise behind the parades rest with the religious fraternities and brotherhoods. They have the responsibility of maintaining the statues as well as coordinating the penitents and musicians. This is a year round thing and can take many many years for the trouno to be completed. Each year some more is added to the trouno until it is completed. They are wooden yet covered in silver and gold (yes the real mcoy). Then the clothes are all hand made and hand embroidered with gold or silver thread. Everything on the trouno is hand made and they keep and lovingly look after and improve them all year round.

Sometimes up to two thousand members of a brotherhood take part, some carry candles, rods or banners depending on their level of seniority. The most senior is the president who carries a golden rod.

The "costaleros" who carry the weight of the floats and their sculptured representations of the biblical scene are directed by the overseer or head of the group who ensure that the float is carried with maximum seriousness, grace and tradition. To be able to survive the long hours and distance carrying the heavy "thrones" the costaleros have a cushion, known as the costal, which prevents the direct contact of the wood rubbing against the skin. To put this into some form of perspective for you the Trounos (thrones) are carried by about 40 people and they each carry a weight of between 40 and 50kg approximately. Each trouno processes for between 4 and 8 hours and these go on all night as they do not begin to leave until about 5:30pm. The thrones are followed by "nazarenos" dressed in tunics, hoods and masks and women dressed in traditional costume. The high point of the procession is when the float exits and enters the respective church. This is the moment when art and religion seem merged into one. A sculpture of images created by superb craftsmen. The best floats date back to the 16th and 17th centuries and can still be seen today. The entire scene is alive with colour and sound, thanks to the polychromatic variety of tunics, hoods, ensigns and banners. Emotions are stirred by the slow rythmic beating of the drums, processional marches, and bands the swaying paces of the bearers and the poignant wailing of the "saeta" which is a sacred song, similar to the flamenco and sung through the Holy Week processions.

Even if you are not religious, it is difficult not to be moved, the atmosphere is so vital and poignant. For some it is a fun filled fiesta time, for others a week of ritual and reflection. Without a doubt, Holy Week in Andalucia is a tradition that is an integral part of the culture and appropriately reflects the spirit of the people. Irrespective of size, each float represents the pride and enthusiasm of every Andaluz who will spend the entire night, from dusk until dawn, accompanying them in solemn reverence to his or her religion
The considerable variants of the Holy Week are determined by the historical evolution of religious fiestas and, above all, by folk traditions which determine individuality and character. Malaga and Seville are the two Andaluz cities where the festivities are perhaps the best known for the sheer sense of spectacle and size.

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